Usually the first article of the year is about an abandoned shrine to honor the tradition of hatsumode, the first shrine visit of the year. Unfortunately I am running out of abandoned shrines, so here’s an abandoned church instead!
The longest Christian tradition in Japan? Nailing believers to the cross! It’s not practiced anymore, but it was pretty common between the middle of the 17th century and the middle of the 19th century; at least more common than in the rest of the world. Nowadays Japan still doesn’t care much about Christianity – except for weddings; and Christmas sales. The average Japanese woman wants her big white dress and feel like a Disney princess for an hour or two; not even for the whole day, just enough to snap some photos for social media. And that’s why there are a few abandoned churches all across Japan. Well… “churches”. The vast majority of them are part of wedding venues and therefore as much of a church as the Sleeping Beauty Castle at Disneyland is a castle… But hey, people treat Japan as one big amusement park, so it’s only natural that the churches here are not really real.
Unfortunately it was the last location of a very, very, very long day and therefore a little bit rushed. But I only knew about the place and not where it was, so I won’t complain – usually I find my own places, so being shown one is something I really, really appreciate. Not only was it shown to me by someone, but that co-explorer had a personal connection to the location – their parents actually got married there a few decades prior! No kidding, I’ve seen photos!
The sun was already setting when we finally arrived at the Nagano Wedding Church, somewhere deep in the Japanese Alps. Much to our surprise there were still some patches of snow on the ground, which, along with the birch trees and some other vegetation, gave the whole area a very Hokkaido vibe – and that’s always a good thing in my book, given that Hokkaido is one of my favorite prefectures. Unfortunately that also meant that we were running out of time soon, making indoor shots impossible quickly and outdoor shots rather unpleasant. Midday this would have been a wonderful exploration, but under the given circumstances, it was an easy, but rushed one. The church was actually part of a resort complex that started with a lease system in 1974 – when the owners weren’t there, they could rent it out and get 50% of the lodging fee, kind of making it an early Airbnb, I guess. The 123 units were able to host up to 300 guests, supported by two restaurants, a bar, a heated pool, a sauna, several tennis courts as well as a beauty clinic. Around the turn of the century the complex was renovated and turned into a dieting resort, which in Japan at the time sounds like a recipe for disaster. And so the thing was shut down about ten years later – though 40 years of business isn’t a bad thing in a country where you can punch through a lot of walls and where mold is almost guaranteed after a while, unless you take really good care of your building. Needless to say that there was absolutely no time to explore any of these, but you can still see some elements in the background of a few photos.
Exploring places I am only peripherally aware of is always a big win, so I really enjoyed exploring the Nagano Wedding Church, despite the circumstances. In addition, accessible abandoned churches, fake or not, are rather rare in Japan overall, which was an added bonus. Not a bad last location of a 24 hour round trip! Yes, a one day trip from Osaka to Nagano prefecture, which consisted of a total of five locations, including the *Failed Health Resort*…
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