Kinugawa Onsen is not abandoned. Kinugawa Onsen is also not a ghost town, despite what clickbaiters are trying to make you believe! Fact of the matter is: Kinugawa Onsen is one of the busiest onsen towns in all of Japan, attracting more than 2 million visitors per year!
Believe me, I get it. Kinugawa Onsen has a lot of abandoned buildings, quite a few of them prominently along the banks of the river Kinu (or kinugawa in Japanese, hence the name). But despite what urbex tourists from both overseas AND Japan want to make you believe: The town is far from being abandoned! Quite the opposite, it’s actually one of the most successful onsen in Japan – just not among foreign tourists, despite being only a short train ride on the Tobu line away from UNESCO World Heritage site Nikko, which is usually swamped with white tourists. But Nikko is often done as a day trip from Tokyo, so why venture even further into the countryside, away from the perceived safety of the Shinkansen lifeline?
Anyway, Kinugawa, plenty of large abandoned hotels – yeah, but mostly in the very northern part, around Kinugawakoen Station. The Takimi Bridge, a suspension bridge offering stunning views, and the surrounding area is where probably 90% of the abandonment photos are taken, because it’s such a low hanging fruit where every dummy with a smartphone can take decent ghost town photos and bait some clicks on social media. The next bridge just 500 meters down the river, Kurogane Bridge, already marks the border between closed Kinugawa Onsen and bustling Kinugawa Onsen – looking north, most buildings on the right side are abandoned, but most buildings on the left side are still in business! Looking south you almost exclusively see large modern hotels along the river. A view most “explorers” leave out, because it doesn’t fit their narrative. From here it’s 400 meters to the Fureai Bridge with the Demon Steps and about a kilometer to Kinugawa Onsen Station – and if you stay within that kilometer radius of Kinugawa Onsen Station, the town looks basically like any other successful onsen place. Sure, there are some signs of struggle, Japan has a tendency to abandoned the old in plain sight just to line up for the new right next to it, but it’s far from the horrible wasteland social media clickbait wants to make you believe.
If you want to be an urbex tourist yourself, no matter whether you have 1 follower or 1 million followers, by all means, go to Kinugawa Onsen and take the same photos as everybody else from the Takimi Bridge – but please, spend the night in town and tell the whole story. First hot spring found in 1691, at first exclusively for feudal lords and Buddhist monks, from the late 19th century on (after the Meiji Restauration) open to the general public. Increase of popularity after the 1920s, when the area was connected to Tokyo by rail. Extreme boom during the bubble era in the 1980s (more than 3 million visitors per year), steep decline after the bubble burst (hence the abandonment in the north, where there were only hotels and not much else, while the area around Kinugawa Onsen Station had all kinds of attractions and entertainment) – now consistently more than 2 million visitors per year, making Kinugawa Onsen one of the biggest and most successful onsen towns in Japan.
All the photos in the gallery below have been taken from public ground. Abandoned places, especially hotels, can be found without looking for them, but I advise you against entering them for several more than obvious reasons. In addition, the town seems to be aware of its reputation, and I’ve seen several police cars casually roaming the streets. “But none of your photos have people on them. Kinugawa Onsen is not so busy after all, eh?” Yeah, there are no people on, because I went there on a Sunday afternoon when most of the Tokyoites that came for the weekend were already on their way back to the big bad city. In addition to that there was a steam locomotive about to leave, so the Kinugawa Onsen Station area was super busy – and I didn’t take any photos there, because Japan has extremely strict privacy laws I just don’t want to deal with. It’s also the reason why I waited several minutes to take photos at the Demon Steps, because I just don’t take pictures with people on if I can avoid it.
Oh, but if you are interested in other urbex places for tourists, *please give this Special a chance by clicking here*.
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